Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Learning (My!) Curves

Mercy.  My journey into creating some really nice fitting/looking garments seems to be at a crawl.  My last project, despite all my measuring AND a muslin: too big.  Don't ask how.  Because I'm not sure.

I refuse to declare it a wadder as the material is too nice (a cashmere wool I scored in Mongolia).  It can be fixed.  I know it can.  It will just take TIME.

Prettier in good light :)
To the present project--a jacket to wear for Easter in Mongolia where it might be 40 degrees.  Maybe.

This cashmere wool in this lovely color

In this pattern
would be

I knew that a month ago, but I didn't know until Saturday that I would be in Mongolia  for Easter.  So, again, TIME is a factor.  ...along with FIT.

Sigh.  I have been avoiding the FBA for years.  Time; i.e., age,  has not made things easier in the FIT department--like starting with a 10 in the shoulders & neck and ending with a 14 in the waste--yikes!  So, a crash course was in order.
Much muslin, tissue paper, chalk, and rulers later I ended up with a working pattern.  With the help of several good books and letting things percolate in between adjustments... I won.  This is what I ended up with--the scary thing is I know the why and what for of every slice and dice.

All that slicing and dicing resulted in a fitting muslin with what I hope is perfect ease:

Yes, I know that I should be using a fabric similar to the wool.  I don't have any, so muslin it is.  I figure on adding some extra when I cut to allow for the wool--though it's a really a thin wool so shouldn't be a prob.  Stay tuned for progress reports.

Things I've learned so far:

How to do a FBA.  Finally.  Pretty amazing actually.  

How to tweak things successfully for my No-Longer Misses figure.  (WHAT happened to the Women's size in the pattern companies??  Where did they go!!!?? )

That I could safely preshrink wool (to help with the interfacing process) by throwing it in the dryer on Permanent Press with a damp towel

That I will be looking into some other pattern companies that I hear from other bloggers are much more in tune with real bodies.

That I would much rather pin the pattern on me and then make a muslin if needed rather than automatically tracing the pattern.  I just find that accuracy gets compromised by tracing.  Plus it's a pain.

These 2 patterns are not what I should have chosen for TNTs.  

I end with a Munchkin shot that makes me smile

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